Before we get to the waterproof paper bag diy tutorial…
Plants are Friends, ain’t that right? And I don’t even have to go into detail here as to how plants can totally change the way a room looks and feels. I mean, more alive & inviting, for one (and two). So, I’ve been trying to introduce some plants into my home ever since my orchid Cherry. Which btw died tragically, leaving me questioning if I’m actually capable of taking care of something else other than me… But, the dog’s alive, tho, (thank God) so, I guess I’m not all bad and everything (still I had to bring God into this).
Let’s get real tho, orchids are freaking not easy to look after and whatnot. Especially if you’re a beginner, like I was and still am, so, starting small, with some “lower-maintenance” plants is what I’m doing for now.
So, a while ago my grandma gave me some of her plants, succulents and this cute plant here that she said it was called parichka in Macedonian (I guess coin, or something like that in English)… I replaced it into a bigger planter (it looked like a successfully done job, but with given my history.. we’ll see). Since it was not my favorite of planters, but in terms of budget it was single-drunk-low-standards-and-self-esteem-teenage-girl friendly, I used it & improvised from there. Damn, I love the #diylife. Enters the Waterproof Planter Bag DIY!
Awhile ago I’ve shared this pretty easy paper bag diy tutorial, but what’s even better, there is a way of making one that’s waterproof, meaning perfect for putting your plant (with the planter and everything, duh) in & it looks just beyond great. I found out about the waterproof planter bag by a site called Grillo Designs, in a post which you can find here.
– Pretty Wrapping Paper
– Contact Paper
– Glue Gun
– *optional Paint Brush + Acrylic Paint (I use this because I only had black wrapping paper, and couldn’t find another that I’d really love, so I had to improvise, again. Ahh, the perks of being broke)
Like I said, this is pretty much the same as with the paper bags… The only difference is – once you’ve cut your rectangular piece of wrapping paper, apply the contact paper on the back of it (so that later on, it becomes the waterproof inside of your bag).
(This is another planter bag I made a while ago, a much much smaller one, and it’s with white contact paper, in case you were wondering)
From here, you just fold that piece in half, so that the both ends meet in the middle + overlap a little. This is where you glue them.
Also, if you want to add some design to your bag, draw/paint something or whatever this is when you do it (cause it’s gonna be easier).
Now, fold the bottom part of the bag (in my case I had to fold it in the middle, so that my planter fits, so make sure that the bag you’re making is fitting for your planter). This is going to be the bottom of the bag.
Once you’ve done this, fold it so that it looks like two triangles making a square. Now, fold the up and bottom corners of the square, making triangles again, and glue them. “Open” the bag, measure the bottom, then cut the contact paper (obviously, according to your previoous measurements) and apply it on the bottom.
The following photos are from the paper bag diy tutorial, but like I said, the waterproof planter bag diy is pretty much the same.
I didn’t do this the first time, which resulted in water on my floor.. So to ensure this doesn’t happen, definitely glue that additional contact paper on the outside of the bottom!
That’s pretty much it, you’ve made your waterproof planter bag!
Also, big thanks to Grillo Designs for this magnificent idea + tutorial.
‘Tis the season for making origami Mayflowers!
Of course, when your kid makes an origami Mayflower, the one thing that she is IMMEDIATELY going to do is try to make it float.
Cue the broken heart in 5, 4, 3, 2…
Fortunately, there is a pretty easy way to make that paper boat float, and it also just happens to involve my favorite autumn crafting supply: melted beeswax!
1. Melt some beeswax. Melt a cup or so of beeswax in a crafts-only crock pot or a DIY stovetop bain marie. Bonus: it will make your house smell awesome.
You might think it’s weird that I measure my solid beeswax in “cups,” but I have this special way that I prep beeswax for storage, that then makes it super simple to use for recipes and such.
2. Make a boat! Make your favorite origami boat; I like this origami boat tutorial from SusieJ.
3. Paint a layer of beeswax onto the boat. Give your kids an old paintbrush that can now be the “beeswax paintbrush,” and let them paint melted beeswax all over the bottom and sides of the boat.
Yes, they’ll drip a couple of drips of liquid beeswax onto their skin, but it’s not really *that* hot. Lesson learned!
Have your kids paint the beeswax pretty far up the sides of the boat (as if they’ll need encouragement to do that!), because you’ll find that, anachronistically, the Mayflower is going to get into a LOT of sea battles during its voyage.
If your boat is small enough and your crock pot wide enough, you can instead dip your boat into the melted beeswax to coat it. You’ll need to dip it at a bit of an angle to release the air pocket from the middle of the boat so that beeswax can get in. Remember, those beeswax drips won’t be *that* hot!
4. Set sail! Your origami Mayflower is ready for its maiden voyage!
And yes, you might as well drop the Thanksgiving theme at this point and just let your kid make a whole fleet now. Pirate battles are hard on paper boats…
NOTE: Yes, this waterproofing method will TOTALLY work with soy wax, or any other eco-friendly solid wax.
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I'm a writer, crafter, Zombie Preparedness Planner, and homeschooling momma of two kids who will hopefully someday transition into using their genius for good, not the evil machinations and mess-making in which they currently indulge. I'm interested in recycling and nature crafts, food security, STEM education, and the DIY lifestyle, however it's manifested--making myself some underwear out of T-shirts? Done it. Teaching myself guitar? Doing it right now.
Visit my blog Craft Knife for a peek at our very weird handmade homeschool life; my etsy shop Pumpkin+Bear for a truly odd number of rainbow-themed beeswax pretties; and my Google + for links to articles about poverty, educational politics, and this famous cat who lives in my neighborhood.
Arty's Getaway: Waterproof Plant Paper Bags DIY // A Budget Friendly and Fun Before we get to the waterproof paper bag diy tutorial So, tell me, is the waterproof paper bag diy one of your next home projects or what?.
I’m so glad you made it here! There are lots of dubious homemade mod podge recipes out there but this is the one that is perfectly proportioned! The one handed down from crafting whizz to crafting whizz, and now here it is, in your very hands! I first posted this recipe many moons ago (six years ago!) when I was living in London. These days we live in a yurt in New Zealand (seriously!) and I still use this homemade mod podge recipe every single day. I use this homemade mod podge on DIY projects like relining my drawers with beautiful old wall paper, everyday crafts with my daughters and the collage artworks I love to whip up.
Now, in lots of ways I am a hand clapping optimist. I find it really hard to imagine the worst case scenario and always think everything is going to work out, which is often to my detriment. In other ways I am a doubting cynic. When it comes to brands and their promises I am more dubious then Scooby doo smoking doobies in dubiousville. When a grand claim is made of a product my mind screams “LIES, ALL DAMN LIES!” like some kind of crossed witch.
There are some exceptions:
Okay, actually, I think that is it on my list.
So when I first heard about crafting super power that is Mod Podge I tried to ignore the screamy witch and find out exactly what it is that makes Mod Podge such a delight. First of all I began by trying to find out what Mod Podge is.Wanna know what it is, basically?
Watered down PVA glue.
That’s: Homemade Mod Podge is PVA glue with water in it.
PVA (that you can buy in bulk for a few quid) with water (free)
But people are paying heaps for this crafting Must Have, to do things like decoupage and scrapbooking, that people have done for years with watered down PVA. PVA is also known as Elmer’s glue or woodowrking glue or simply white crafting glue. It is gluggy and sticky and thick and perfect.
I kind of think the people of Mod Podge are trying to fox us all a little bit.
Oh well. Now we know, eh?
To make a jar of fake / homemade Mod Podge you need 1 cup of glue and 1/3 cup of water. These proportions are perfect – don’t mess with them. Other internet recipes for homemade Mod Podge abound but they are TOO WEAK. Beware! Shake really well and use as you would Mod Podge. To make it gloss add 2 table spoons of water based varnish or to make the sparkly add super fine glitter.
What to make
You can make ANYTHING with this stuff – it is the business! I craft left, right and center with my trusty jar of homemade mod podge!
Decoupage – mod podge is traditionally used to decoupage. This stuff works just as well.
Scrap booking – it is perfect.
Sealing – fling a bit of this over a freshly painted canvas or a craft to seal it all in.
I have even made hardcore DIY recycled flooring with mod podge and paper as the base!
Recently I wanted to try making some decorated pegs. I made some Christmas pegs with ribbon and scrabble tiles in this way but found cutting the fabric and getting it to not fray really tricky. Using homemade Mod Podge on fabric turns it into a paper like substance and makes cutting out fabric a real breeze – perfect for a peg craft, thanks.
Just give the little scraps of fabric a good soaking then leave them to dry as flat as you can. Then snip them up. It is truly ace and made making these pegs so easy. And if you are like me and keep every snippet of beautiful material than this is the PERFECT use!
I used some navy polka dots and even a bit of lace, so simple and quick (excuse the late-at-night in mid-winter photography!)
Does it yellow?
I have been using this for several years and it hasn’t yellowed. Beyond “several years” I can’t answer as I haven’t been making it for ages. However, my gut feeling is that people have been decoupaging for EVER, without things yellowing- and mod podge didn’t actually exist until quite recently. So, yeah.
I made retro fabric bird garland using this technique and transformed some rubbish old tins.
Is it waterproof?
You can make it waterproof by adding varnish to it. However, if you really want something waterproof, hardcore, then I would say you need to use varnish. Not mod podge at all. (Remember Mod Podge isn’t waterproof unless you select the waterproof option too.)
What do you think? Are you a Mod Podge Die Hard? Or are you generally happy with the fake/ home made versions of things?
The best place online to buy PVA is undoubtedly my affiliate chums Yellow Moon. You can get 1 litre bottles or 5 litre bottles and it never goes off. They also have almost every possible craft thing you have dreamed of. It is a crafter’s paradise.
*sings* I’ve been spending most my years living in the crafter’s paradiiiiiise… power in the money… money in the power… minute after a minute…. hour after hour…
Sorry. Totally carried away with my 1990’s rapping there.
Tell me about the project you are whipping up with your homemade mod podge!
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Thanks for reading!
Maybe junkie isn’t the best word. I just think that sticking stuff to other stuff feels good. Why is that? I don’t know. I have tried many different adhesives and sealants in my day, and these are my faves that make up the contents of my shelf/crafting kit. There is nothing worse than being so ready to finish a project, then not having the right glue or spray, so I keep these in stock at all time. Please if you have one I’ve overlooked or you think I need to try, share it in the comments! Get the full low down on the Best Crafting Adhesives and Sealants after the jump…
World’s Best Crafty Adhesives and Sealants That Should Be In Your Kit
*in my humble opinion*
Aleene’s is one of those brands that you just know makes good stuff. If you’re ever in doubt just get Aleene’s and you’ll be fine. No, they don’t pay us to say things like that. But if you work for Aleene’s and you want to send me a giant box of magical glues and sprays, please go right ahead. The ones I can’t live without:
Aleene’s Clear Gel Tacky Glue, $1.72 for four ounces. The fall back glue for when you don’t know what to use. Super strong and it’s very useful that it is clear when your attention to detail is poor like mine.
Aleene’s Crystal Clear Tacky Spray, $4.49. Spray Adhesive is one of those things you don’t think you need until you use it, then you’re like, oh i should have always had this. It allows you to glue paper to paper (or other non-pourous stuff) with no lumps and bumps, and dries almost instantly. I like this one the best because you also have a few seconds to lift the item and re-position it before it dries.
Aleene’s Stop Fraying, $2.88 for four ounces. This is a white glue that dries clear that you use for fabric edges to keep them from fraying. It is handy if you serge to place a dot where two stitch lines meet. Also useful if you have a tiny hole in something and you want to keep it from getting bigger. I also use it on the edges of cotton webbing (like when I made the replacement Doll Stroller seat). It’s just a great thing to have if you sew.
Aleene’s Fabric Stiffening and Draping Liquid, $5.70. This isn’t something you MUST HAVE but it’s pretty fun. It hardens fabric, from a little hard to hard-as-a-rock depending on how you use it. You can make firm bows and doily bowls and snowflakes, which make lovely gifts and cost so little. Just a fun thing to have!
Best Test Rubber Cement – $7.19. Honestly I just love this because it reminds me of being a kid in school and getting it on my fingers and peeling it off into a little ball.
And of course a Hot Glue Gun, $4.85. I’ve had a super cheap mini one for over six years and it’s all I’ve ever needed – from little paper projects to my king size headboard.
Krylon Clear Polyurethane, $4.79. This sealer basically puts a plastic coating on top of whatever you spray it on. It’s very thin but it protects your finished project from moisture and the elements. I have noticed over time that it turns a slight shade of yellow, possibly only visible to me, but I have stopped using it for mod podge projects that are white or bright. I think it is best for wood projects and things meant to go outdoors and get rained on, in which case it is invaluable. I just picked up the can and it says “adds a warm luster” so I think that means “turns it slightly yellow” ha.
Aleene’s Spray Acrylic Sealer, $7.02. This is what I now use to seal all those Mod Podge coasters and vases and step stools any other decoupage project. Dries quickly, easy to apply, keeps the moisture out and retains the original color. If you decoupage you NEED THIS. If you don’t use it your decoupaged items can suffer water damage, or worst of all, melt.
Mod Podge. I’m not going to bore you by explaining why you need this again. Just get some in glossy and matte and make some stuff! Search “mod podge” in our search box for projects.
So, do you agree with my selections? And what am i missing??
You can also mix it with water to make a sealer for paper mache and other crafts - but be careful how you use it as most types of PVA are not waterproof.
WARNING: There is a tragic flaw with most of the "how to make coasters from ceramic tiles" instructions on the web. Can you guess what it is?
They're not waterproof! Seems silly, right? But it's true. I know, because I tried them. The ceramic tile coasters that I crafted looked great initially, but very quickly got tea and coffee stains on them that wouldn't wipe off. Not being waterproof is a pretty serious problem for a coaster!
I tried all sorts of things to make the coasters waterproof. On my third or fourth attempt I finally figured out how to make coasters that were immune to tea and coffee drips. I'll share the secret with you on this page so you can learn how to make coasters that are beautiful, durable, and fully waterproof. It's actually pretty simple once you know how.
Here's a close-up. You can see the glossy, waterproof finish.
I'll show you how to make coasters in batches of four, though obviously you can make as many or few as you like.
I think they make really lovely gifts. I gave this set to my mom for Christmas which I made using some beautiful Japanese paper.
And here's a gratuitous photo of my DIY ceramic tile craft coaster with one of my favorite Denby teacups.
If you're wondering how to make coasters with photos, you can use the exact same method. Here's one made by reader Shelbie (thanks for sending in the pic Shelbie!).
Here's a beautiful tile by artist Judy Blasdell. She printed her design on a water slide decal and then varnished using the method I'll show you on this page.
Here's an awesome set coasters featuring Star Wars bounty hunters, by Jason from Drexninestudios. The artwork was hand-painted, scanned, given a digital background in post-production, then printed and glued onto the tiles using the method on this page.
Sometimes I get asked how to make coasters by directly hand-painting on them, so here's how: You can paint on your tiles using special oven-bake ceramic paint like the Pebeo Vitrea paints, bake them (using the instructions that come with the paint), and then coat the tiles with envirotex like I describe on the rest of page. Check out these adorable hand-print tiles made by reader Felicity and her two year old daughter. Thanks Felicity for sharing your photo and the way you made your coasters!
You can also hang your coasters on the wall as wall art. Here are some brilliant motivational wall coasters made by reader Joann. Thanks for sharing your photos Joann!
Reader Staci made coasters as an anniversary gift for her boyfriend with photos of their favorite places in Kansas City. What a cool idea! Thanks for sharing your photo Staci!
Reader Sarah made these gorgeous coasters with a fairytale castle design. Thanks for sharing your photo Sarah!
This is a long page, but don't let that frighten you. Learning how to make tile coasters is actually really easy. The only reason the page is long is because I've divided the tutorial up into small steps and included lots of photos.
The first step in learning how to make coasters is to gather up your materials. Here's what you'll need...
You can find tiles at DIY stores like Home Depot - you can even buy tiles online . (Thanks to reader Lisa for the Home Depot link!)
For the glue, I recommend using Mod Podge or another reputable brand. I've tried using cheap white glues in the past, and some of them turn brown over time, which is heartbreaking after you put a lot of work into a project.
*Instead of using scrapbooking paper, you could use photos (print them 4x4") to make your own custom photo coasters. Or, you could use sheet music from a favorite piece, pages of a classic novel, botanical illustrations or other illustrations from books/novels, you own sketches or drawings (or children's), postage stamps, tickets from events you've attended, postcards, sections of maps, candy wrappers, etc...
Tile coasters look awesome using photos instead of craft paper, but there are some special tips to make them turn out right.
If you print your photos at home using an inkjet printer, then you need to use a different glue instead of Mod Podge. The Mod Podge is water based and makes inkjet-printed photos run. So, instead of using Mod Podge, I'd recommend using a special glue designed specifically for inkjet prints. One glue that works well is "Annie Howes Glamour Seal", or else you can use a clear spray acrylic sealer that you can purchase from a craft store or hardware store.
If you get your photos printed at a photo print shop (e.g. Kinkos) then the instructions on this page work just fine without any modifications. Some print shops will let you print 4x4" prints, which fit perfectly on a tile (thank you Theresa for this tip!)
Achieving a waterproof and non-tacky finish is the the most critical part of how to make coasters in my opinion. Here's what you'll need:
The Envirotex is the secret of how to make coasters with a beautiful, glass-like, non-tacky*, stain-proof finish. It's a two-part epoxy that comes in two bottles which you mix together then pour on your coasters. People use it to coat bar-tops in bars and restaurants so it's designed to be durable. One coat of Envirotex is equivalent to 50 coats of regular varnish. If you want to make a gift that will last for years, then it's worth using.
The cured envirotex feels completely smooth and non-tacky to your fingers, and is 100% waterproof. The only thing that's not perfect about it is that it does stick a little bit to a hot coffee cup. Having said that, it's still much less tacky than any other finish I've tried in my experiments of how to make coasters.
Before I discovered Envirotex I tried practically every other type of varnish (including acrylic varnish, decoupage varnish, spray-on polyurethane varnish, araldite, egg whites, and mod-podge), and nothing gave as good a finish. The other types of varnish looked OK, but they were tacky, or brittle, or got stained by coffee or tea.
I haven't seen Envirotex in many craft stores, but you can get it at Amazon (link above) or on eBay. Some readers have said they've also spotted it in their local Michaels and Hobby Lobby craft stores. An 8-oz kit (enough for 16 tiles) normally costs around $15, so it comes out at less than $1 / coaster. And obviously it's cheaper per tile if you buy it in bulk.
OK, now you've got your materials, let's get onto the fun bit of how to make coasters :-)
I found this video (not my own) that does a great job of explaining how to make coasters and coat them with Envirotex. Actually it describes how to make placemats, but the process for coasters is almost identical.
If you have a slow internet connection you may prefer to follow my written instructions below instead.
Cut out squares of scrapbooking paper (or photos) to decorate your coasters. My tiles are 4" across, so I cut out pieces of scrapbooking paper 3.5" across, to leave a small border around the edge.
Make sure your tiles are clean and dry. If they're greasy, then give them a wipe with methylated spirits or rubbing alcohol to clean them.
Completely paint the blank side of a decorative paper square with Mod Podge or white glue. Make sure you go right up to the edges. It's best to work on a piece of scrap paper that you don't mind getting glue on.
Place the glued piece of decorative paper onto a tile. Press on it firmly to remove any air bubbles. I recommend using a glass tumbler as a rolling pin and using a rolling motion from the center to the edge of the paper to work out any bubbles. The first time I did this I just used my fingers and even though I thought I was thorough I still left some bubbles under the paper which I only noticed once the glue was dry.
Repeat the process for the rest of the tiles. Have a cup of tea and a biscuit and wait 15 minutes for the glue to dry before going going on to the next step.
Check for any bubbles under the paper. If you see any, pop them with a pin and flatten them out.
Brush a layer of Mod Podge or white glue over the top of the decorative paper. I like to brush all in the same direction.
Wait until the glue dries clear (about 15 minutes), then paint on another layer, this time at right-angles to the first layer. It's really important that you completely seal over the paper with glue, so that later the varnish doesn't soak into the paper and discolor it.
Leave glue to dry overnight, so that it's completely dry before you apply the varnish in the next step.
Don't worry if the dried glue has a ridged surface texture from the brush strokes. When you varnish the coasters it will create a beautifully smooth surface and you won't see the ridges any more.
I strongly recommend varnishing your tiles to make them waterproof. If you leave them unvarnished then they'll look OK, but they'll always have a slightly tacky (sticky) feel to them, and will stick to a hot cup placed on them. Also they'll stain if tea or coffee gets on them. Varnishing your tiles with Envirotex will give them a glass-like waterproof finish which I think is really worth it.
Mind you, the Envirotex epoxy varnish is going to drip everywhere when you pour it on your coasters, so before you start it's a good idea to:
The Envirotex smells a bit so you might want to work in a room with an open window. It not anywhere near as stinky as spray-on varnish though, which was something else I tried (but wasn't happy with the results of) along the way in my quest for how to make coasters waterproof.
Mark lines at 1oz and 2oz (30 mL and 60 mL) on one of your disposable plastic cups. That's assuming you're making 4 coasters, each 4" square. If you're making more or less, you'll need to follow the instructions on the Envirotex package for how much you'll need.
The way I marked the lines was to put exact amounts of water into the cup (using digital scales) and mark the level with a Sharpie marker. You could also use measuring spoons to measure out the water. Make sure you completely dry the cup afterwards.
Another option is to buy disposable measuring cups that already have measuring lines marked on them, but I figured I could just as easily make my own for cheaper.
Put the Envirotex bottles in a bath of warm (not hot) water to heat up.
While the bottles are warming up, cover the edges of the base of your tiles with adhesive tape, and trim any excess. This will make it easy to remove any drips of Envirotex later.
Pour 1oz (30 mL) from each Envirotex bottle into your measuring cup. Stir for 1 minute using a wooden paddle. After 1 minute, pour the mix into your 2nd cup, and stir for another minute. It's important to use two cups like this, because it leaves behind the unmixed epoxy on the sides of the first cup.
When stirring, you want to stir fast enough to mix the resin, but don't stir so vigorously that you make bubbles .
As soon as you've finished mixing the Envirotex, pour it onto the center of your coasters. Try to divide it evenly between all four. Notice how each coaster is balanced on top of a disposable cup to prevent it getting glued to the work surface.
The Envirotex will form spreading puddles on each tile and start dripping over the sides. Don't worry about the drips, they're a normal part of the process.
You want the Envirotex to completely cover each tile, so if it doesn't quite reach into the corners then use a scrap of cardboard to help spread it.
Also use a scrap of cardboard to make sure that the Envirotex completely covers the sides of each tile.
About 15 minutes after you poured the Envirotex, you will notice tiny bubbles rising to the surface. Breathe gently over the surface of each tile to pop the bubbles. If you're nervous about putting your face too close to the tiles then you can breathe on them through a straw. Alternatively, you can use a blow torch or heat gun (just don't put them too close to the coaster or you'll burn the Envirotex!).
About 30 minutes after you poured the Envirotex, use a scrap of cardboard to wipe any drips from the bottom of the tiles. Wait another 30 minutes, and wipe away the drips again. By this stage you will have drips of Envirotex epoxy all over your work surface. I hope you protected it with newspaper or cardboard!
Cover your project with something (e.g. big cardboard box) to prevent dust landing on the coasters, and let the Envirotex cure for 24 hours.
Update: I've been told that after the initial 24 hr set you can bake the epoxy in the oven at 175 °F (80 °C) for 2-3 hrs to help it really set rock solid, but I haven't tried this myself. Another reader told me that they tried it but it made their tiles lose their gloss. If you try it, please let me know how it works for you (in the comments )
Once the Envirotex has set, peel the adhesive tape (which will be covered in drips of Envirotex) off the bottom of the coasters.
If it's hard to remove the tape, you might need to first file the bottom edges of the tile with a nail file or sandpaper.
If there are imperfections on the surface of the Envirotex (e.g. areas that somehow got missed), then you can "rescue" the project by pouring on a second coating of Envirotex.
As a final touch, attach felt squares to the bottom of your coasters with glue or double sided tape. Some craft stores even sell adhesive-backed felt which makes it super easy. You could also use cork-board instead of felt.
Here are the finished coasters, ready to be given as a gift! The Envirotex coating cures to full strength and toughness about 72 hours (3 days) after pouring, at 70 degrees F (21 °C). After this time the coasters are ready to use. The cure time is slower at lower temperatures.
I hope you enjoyed learning how to make coasters and that you found my instructions clear. If you have any questions or comments, or just want to say hi, then please contact me with this handy form .
Many people learning how to make coasters have asked me these questions...
Q: Is the Envirotex waterproof?
A: Yes, it's completely waterproof. It sets like a clear hard plastic.
Q: Is the Envirotex heatproof?
A: It's fine to put a hot cup of tea of coffee on it, but not a pot from the stove.
Q:Is the Envirotex scratch-proof?
A: Sort of. It's like a clear, hard plastic, so it will get tiny scratches over time.
Q: Will a hot cup of tea stick to the Envirotex?
A: Unfortunately yes, it will, just a little bit. But much less than any other varnish, coating, mod-podge etc that I've tried. If anyone figures out a better option then let me know !
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NakasaApril 29, 2019 12:17 AM
Improbably. It seems impossible.
GoltigisMay 05, 2019 8:24 PM
I apologise, but it is necessary for me little bit more information.
ZolornApril 29, 2019 1:29 AM
GrogalMay 02, 2019 1:56 AM
The useful message